The San Francisco Chronicle’s new restaurant critic Soleil Ho recently published her first slate of reviews. And judging from reactions on social media—including a rebuke from Mimi Sheraton—the 31-year-old former podcaster and chef is already making her presence felt, particularly in contrast to the old guard. Some say Ho is helping to redefine her craft—not only by doing away with stars and anonymity, but also by paying attention to race, class, and gender.