Dunkin’ Donuts is an East Coast food chain that’s trying to establish itself in California. Two previous efforts haves been held back by a network of independent doughnut stores in mini-malls all over the state. They’re owned and operated by Cambodian immigrants — the successors of an enterprising character who’s won fortunes and lost them, named Ted Ngoy. He’s the subject of a story in the California Sunday Magazine called, “Dunkin' and the Doughnut King,” by Greg Nichols, author of, Striking Gridiron: A Town’s Pride ad Teams Shot at Glory During the Biggest Strike in American History.