Too hot to cook? Go for Mediterranean takeout

By Evan Kleiman

This spread from Mini-Kabob in Glendale features beef shish kabob, chicken lule, homemade cottage fries, toum, eggplant caviar, onions with parsley salad, roasted veggies, rice, and lavash. Photo by Julia Stotz.

For me, a gauge of the weather is: Do I still want to cook? This week, the answer is definitely no, I do not want to cook. But I would like more than a few lettuce leaves, no matter how delicious the dressing. Perhaps it’s my Instagram envy, but after watching friends enjoy themselves on the Greek islands or in coastal France and Italy, I think maybe exploring Mediterranean options for takeout is a good idea. 

In my newsletter last week, I talked about my experiences living in a commune on the island of Crete as a teen. The first place I wanted to go to when I got back from that trip was C & K Importing, the expansive store on Pico at Normandie that furnished the kitchens of local Greeks. 

This was way before the restaurant Papa Cristos (Pico and Normandie), which offers portions that are generous enough for a large family, or if you’re having friends over but don’t want to do any work. If you ask me to put together an order for two to four people, I’d get a feast of cold appetizers: taramasalata, a smooth spread of cod roe, olive oil, and bread (like a hummus of the sea); horta or cooked greens, which they serve with pickled beets; giant white beans, known as gigandes; and feta with olives. Save the moussaka or pistitso for cooler weather. 


The Great Greek serves this vegetarian platter. Photo courtesy of The Great Greek.

If you’re in the mood for a similar experience but live in the valley, check out Steve Chiotakis’ suggestion of The Great Greek (Sherman Oaks). Their menu is extensive, but Steve says to get the egg-lemon soup with orzo and chicken. Avgolemono is one of my obsessions, and I can’t wait to try theirs, which is purportedly the best in the city. Now some of you may say soup in 90-degree weather? I’d say all over the world, people turn to soup to cool down, a phenomenon which has been researched. The soup causes the body to heat up, then start to sweat, which helps us to cool off. In addition to soup, I would almost certainly order the vegetarian platter, which combines all my favorite Greek meze: tzatziki, eggplant salad, tabouli, spanakopita, Greek fasolia beans, and feta. They even throw in hummus and additional veggies. They are also known for their lamb dishes. And I’d get an order of galactoboriko for dessert. That’s a rich custard tucked between layers of crisp filo. The Great Greek also puts together “party packages” of 15 different menu items for a reasonable price.

We have to have a rotisserie chicken on this list, but not a sad one from the grocery store. If you’re in the middle of town, head to Jerusalem Chicken (Slauson), a Palestinian place in a strip mall that delivers some of the juiciest, most flavorful rotisserie chicken I’ve ever had. Larry David make the lemon- garlic chicken (justly) famous. I love it. But their other options — the Original J Chicken stuffed with seasoned rice, mushrooms and beef; and the Emsakhan, half-chicken cooked with onion, sumac, spices and olive oil — are also stellar. If you’re having a couple of friends over, get them all and share. Don’t miss the veggie sides, I could make a meal of them. Fill out the meal (not that you’ll need to) with babaganoush, try the foohl instead of hummus for a change.

It’s hot, but you want someone else to stand over the grill? (Don’t forget to tip!) There is only one place — Mini-Kabob (Glendale). The combo plates are legendary. Your only problem will be keeping your fingers out of the plates until you get home and share with your people. If it’s only yourself, get extra napkins because you know you’re not going to be able to wait once you’re in the enclosed space of the car with those kabobs. Your vegetarian friend can have the falafel. I always get the chicken cutlet. It’s so flavorful and I love the texture. They make a beef one too. The cutlets are pan-seared, like what a hamburger patty wishes it was; while the lule kabob, beef or chicken, see the meat formed around flat skewers and cooked over an open fire. Of course, there is also a shish kabob of marinated flap meat or a very tender pork tenderloin. All plates include fire-roasted jalapeños and tomatoes, hummus, onions with parsley, and rice. Try the pear or walnut sodas imported from Armenia.