For decades, big-name chefs and institutions — Julia Child, James Beard, the Food Network — have shaped America’s cuisine. Now some of the most influential voices are regular people, such as New Jersey resident Leah Victoria and Brooklyn resident Justine Doiron, who both experiment with recipes on TikTok.
Freelance food writer Alicia Kennedy says cooks on the social media network are mimicking an old-school way of learning the craft, where you’re standing in the kitchen with your mom, grandma, neighbor, etc. — and they’re showing you something they’ve whipped up a million times.
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Many of these videos don’t involve lots of editing or even a tripod, she points out. “They're just having their phone hanging out in the kitchen on the counter with them, or they're holding it somewhere. … We're seeing both really polished videos and really unpolished videos be super popular when it comes to food.”
The TikTok users’ vulnerabilities are appealing as well. For example, Doiron talks about repairing her relationship with food after struggling with disordered eating.
In addition to cooking videos, people like Keith Lee are using the platform to review mom and pop restaurants.
“[Lee] is really well-trusted for his perspectives on food. And he has so many more followers than a traditional restaurant critic. … Folks are looking for people they have a real relationship with and that they relate to. And traditional media is really struggling to keep up with it.”
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TikTok seems to be affecting real-world eateries too. “They're making food that works on video. They're making burgers that get cut in half, they're making wild cheesy dishes. … While restaurants had a moment of trying to appeal to Instagram, now they're making food for video.”