When you open a package of Scandinavian brown cheese, it feels like a mistake. How could that caramel-colored cube with such a fudgy consistency be a cheese? Well, technically it’s not a cheese, but a very clever by-product of the cheesemaking process. Called gjetost or brunost, its utility lies exactly in its unique flavor and texture.
Most cheese-making processes begin with the separation of milk into curds and whey. Milk contains casein, a protein. And when you add acid or a special enzyme to it, the proteins bind up, leaving behind whey. For most cheeses, the whey is discarded, and the curd is worked on in a nearly infinite variety of ways to become a particular cheese. With brunost, it all begins with the whey, which is 90% water but rich in protein, lactose, calcium, and some B vitamins.
To create the brown cheese, whey is simmered for several hours until it reduces, and the natural sugars caramelize and the mixture thickens. Often milk or cream is added to the whey to create a more luxurious texture and flavor. The thickened brown paste is then cooled in molds, where it solidifies into a sliceable cheese. Traditionally a cheese plane is used to cut a thin slice. Brunost nearly melts in the mouth and in addition to the deep caramel notes, there is a tang too.
Brown cheese is used to make caramel and served with strawberries and a pancake. Photo by Nevada Berg.
In addition to cow’s milk, the cheese can be made from goat’s milk, which is a bit stronger with more tang. When cream is added to cow’s milk, the result is milder and richer. A combination cheese made of both cow’s and goat’s milk is very popular in Norway.
Because this “cheese” is simply boiled whey with other kinds of milk added, it’s actually pretty easy to make at home if you’re a DIY person who likes a project, especially if you can get your hands on some fresh whey that isn’t made from yogurt production. But if making it yourself is a step too far, brown cheese is available locally at Ralph’s, Gelson’s, and other specialty markets. Ski Queen is the most commonly seen brand — it’s a red package with a skier flying down a slope of “creamy caramel cheese.”
Now to the eating. In Scandinavia, it’s most commonly eaten on bread or crispbread with jam. Enjoying it atop waffles is a classic. I love it all of these ways, but what intrigues me more is how it’s often melted into other dishes since it’s such an easy way to add a rich, caramelized flavor tempered with tang.
Back in 2023, I interviewed Nevada Berg of North Wild Kitchen, who has an encyclopedia of recipes using brown cheese. Instead of simply laying slices of the cheese on pancakes or waffles, she carefully melts it in a pan and pours it over, finishing with sliced strawberries. Her recipes span the sweet, from brownies to cinnamon buns and cream pie, to savory like meatballs and stews. I love it as a component of a charcuterie plate, where I can pair it with nuts and giant raisins along with saltier cheeses and some salame. Once you start eating Scandinavian brown cheese and cooking with it, you’ll never be without a little cube in the fridge.