This past weekend, a lunch stop in Buellton at Industrial Eats gave inspiration for this week’s conversation. Despite their extensive menu, I was drawn to the Grilled Peach Salad with Prosciutto. It turned out to be a lovely composed plate of prosciutto, half of which was sauteed, half left uncooked; lightly dressed arugula; a couple leaves of barely sauteed spinach; and the grilled fruit, cut into wedges and set atop grilled bread with slices of garlic. It was a make-your-own bruschetta affair, which I thought was so smart. Peaches and nectarines find a home on the grill or seared cut side down in a heavy pan. Once cut into wedges, they are a perfect foil to a mixed plate of creamy burrata and spicy arugula.
Often we think of fruit as something that needs to be eaten in a sweet application. Either it’s in a pastry, dessert, or smoothie — or eaten as a snack alone.
But when it comes to stone fruit in particular, I like to turn to the tomato for guidance. Tomatoes and stone fruit have a lot in common. Tomatoes are a fruit that have a balance of acid and sweetness. Stone fruits also give us their unique flavor profiles within a context of sweet and acid (except of course, low acid fruits, which we will set aside for now). Once you recognize how much stone fruit flavor is informed by acid, it’s easier to imagine it consumed in a savory dish. Personally, I’ve never been a big fan of sweet, savory food — but savory stone fruit salads, yes please.
One way to approach a stone fruit salad is to be inspired by savory hot dishes that combine the fruit with meat and various spices, like the classic pairing of chicken and apricots, or Persian stews and Moroccan tagines. And don’t forget about South Asian fruit-based chutneys, which have an acidic component married to sweetness. So, for example, toss large shreds of cooked chicken breast with quarters of apricots and little gem lettuce leaves with a mango chutney vinaigrette.
This black rice salad uses its color to great effect with the addition of dark-halved and pitted cherries and plums. Walnuts add protein and a nice chew, while soft and spreadable gorgonzola dolce is mixed into fresh breadcrumbs and baked to create a gravel-type texture to the salad.
Assertive cheeses, like blues and creamy goat, are often added to stone fruit salads to balance sweetness. Prosciutto or jamon serrano serve the same function, also adding a huge umami hit. But if you’re vegan or want to avoid cured meats, but want a source of protein, think about adding sauteed tempeh to your salad. It has a robust, mushroom flavor with a hint of brininess, so it pairs well with the sweet fruit. It also adds a satisfying chewy texture and can be crumbled, diced, or sliced. Of course you can also use ready-to-use marinated baked tofu.