Baking bread, muffins, brownies? Add zucchini

The Smitten Kitchen’s Ultimate Zucchini Bread recipe requires two full cups of shredded zucchini. Photo by Deb Perelman.

Google “zucchini in baking,” and the first thing that comes up is not that old stalwart, zucchini bread, but rather brownies. Surprised? Something else that comes up: Why do people put zucchini in cake? Good question. Aside from the need to use the copious amount of zucchini in home gardens at the end of summer, there are good baking reasons to use it.

The moistness of zucchini brings quite a lot to bakes, and in the case of brownies, leans into its fudgy quality. The incredibly helpful King Arthur baking site compares zucchini to other wet ingredients like mashed bananas and applesauce, with the ability to create a more tender crumb along with textural interest, more volume, a bit more longevity, and of course a nutritional boost. But unlike bananas or applesauce, zucchini is more neutral in flavor, which means you can pair it with less concern for ingredients that don’t go well together. It’s kind of a Zelig, it fits in everywhere.

Just as it would for savory dishes, the condition of the zucchini matters. Look for firm ones that aren’t too big. When they blow up toward the end of the season, the interior can be spongy with large seeds. Don’t peel your zucchini. A lot of the nutrition is there, and really what are a few green flakes strewn throughout your bake? If you’re concerned, make something chocolatey, the color will cover up the green. Unlike in most savory dishes using the vegetable, there is no need to squeeze it dry after grating. You want that moisture, and baking recipes that use zucchini have taken it into consideration.

Here are a few recipes to try. The first is the Ultimate Zucchini Bread from Deb Perelman of Smitten Kitchen. It’s a one bowl, mix with a fork, quick bread. I think we can all agree on the engaging aspects of that description. And it only makes one beautiful big loaf, not two or a sheet pan. It’s enough but not too much. And it contains a full two cups of shredded zucchini. 

If you’re a person who likes a muffin, here are two, one is a savory, cheesy affair that would be great for breakfast, while the Zucchini Lemon Muffins are like mini lemon cakes studded with dried cranberries. I might try them with some chopped candied ginger.

And for that brownie, try this recipe that yields a double chocolate fudgy version. The author of the recipe, Amanda Rettke, uses the smaller holes on the grater to get a thinner shred. The batter is quite dry until you add the zucchini. There are no eggs in the recipe, just three cups of undrained zucchini.

I hope I’ve convinced you to try using that end of summer bounty in something sweet.