For decades, the Grand Central Market on Broadway has been a sort of nucleus of Downtown – a destination for hungry patrons, rich and poor, of all classes and nationalities. The market was established in the tradition of other great food markets of the world, but always with a distinctly Los Angeles flavor – dozens of stalls full of fresh bread, bright produce, traditional Asian herbs, smoked meats of the Eastern European tradition, carne asada. But just as Downtown LA has evolved over the decades, so has Grand Central Market. In a new piece for Los Angeles Magazine, Jesse Katz calls the market “the front lines of LA’s new demographic wars.”