Lou Amdur of Lou Wine Shop in Los Feliz remembers that early on during the pandemic, the CDC cautioned the public to limit its drinking. There was a collective response of “uh, yeah, no.” Amdur is seeing more people reach for everyday, delicious, less expensive wines. On his list of recommendations is Pineau d’Aunis, a grape with a sensibility of days gone by, as well as light-bodied and low-in-alcohol reds. At the other end of the spectrum are fortified wines that may require a moment of meditation and an invitation to slow down with good Madeira.