“Trust the Gorton’s fisherman,” or so the slogan goes. But truth be told, if you were to eat a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich in Alaska, the fish inside the breading will have crossed the continental United States twice on its journey to Gloucester, Massachusetts, to be sliced and batter-coated in breadcrumbs before returning west to the Golden Arches. Journalist Lee van der Voo takes a deep dive into the commercial fishing industry in her new book, “The Fish Market.” In it, she exposes the monopolies, privatization and exclusionary practices that are just as rampant on the seas as they are in America’s agricultural industry.