Vegan pies are riddled with challenges. "I feel like one of the biggest mistakes that I see is sometimes people are trying to aim too high or overachieve," says Jennifer Yee, the proprietor of Bakers Bench, a Chinatown bakery known for its plant-based croissants and other baked goods. "I don't have to have a vegan crème brûlée pie," she remarks. A delicious blueberry or strawberry pie can win a ribbon.
After trying a variety of plant-based butters, Yee has had success using Miyoko's and Earth Balance. "I like the flavor of Earth Balance but it can get a little waxy," she says. Combining the two, creates the perfect structure and flavor.
For alternatives to dairy, Yee opts to blend soy and oat milks. Soy milk has protein that will give a pie crust color while oat milk has toasty flavors. To avoid weepy, watery pies and to achieve a creamy texture, she substitutes coconut milk, which has fat and the proper water content. Ideally, she opts for good, old fashioned tapioca or cornstarch to hold everything together. Yee recommends avoiding aquafaba meringues, which can't withstand heat during a day-long pie contest.
Balance is key. Add lemon juice or salt to dial down the sweetness of pie fillings. Add sugar or maple syrup to help crusts brown. "Our brains, when we see brown pastries, say 'tasty'," Yee says.
Jennifer Yee of Bakers Bench will soon be opening a brick-and-mortar spot for her popular treats. Photo by Eric Kelly.