When we were planning our second #TortillaTournament in 2019, I remember some folks worried that having the same names appear year after year might turn off the public. I replied that soccer fans don't stop seeing the FIFA World Cup just because Argentina and Brazil and England and France make it seemingly every four years. Besides, this is why one plays the game — because you never know who may win.
This year's Suave 16 is proof of that sports maxim. Half of them are newcomers, a record. Central American tortillas, included for the first time, have had a moment. So has San Diego. But winners are winners for a reason, and of the Suave 16 from last year that returned this year, three of them are previous Golden Tortilla winners, and another is the legendary Mitla Café, which has made it into the Suave 16 every year it has participated but has yet to crack the Fuerte Four.
So will the stalwarts move on to the Eso Eight or will the newbies continue their history-making run?
Read about the winners, and don't forget to vote for whom you think should win the Bronze Comal People's Choice Award! From now until our finale (Oct. 8 at Smorgasburg LA), we're letting folks vote for their favorite tortilla maker. The top vote-getter will win the inaugural Bronze Comal People's Choice, which comes with a $300 gift card to Northgate Market. The overall Tortilla Tournament winner receives a $500 card to Northgate and the person who wins our Fantasía Bracket gets a $200 Northgate gift card. Cast your vote for the Bronze Comal right here!
Now, on to the results.
Corn tortillas wait to be eaten. Photo credit: Brad/Unsplash
CORN BRACKET: EVAN
Judge: Evan Kleiman, host of KCRW's Good Food
Evan's Results
#8 Chiguacle: vs. #12 Pan Victoria: I hate this matchup! Chiguacle is one of the most interesting tortillas I've ever tasted. It makes me want to taste the food at the place that makes these tortillas. But Pan Victoria is unique among tortillas in this tournament, so far. Its characteristic Central American thickness creates a tortilla that is simultaneously dense and fluffy. Absolutely delicious. This may sound insane but it reminds me of the texture of the best kind of matzo ball… if it were made of nixtamalized corn. Winner: Pan Victoria
#2 Mitla Café vs. #11 La Yalaltequita: Looking at the La Yalaltequita tortilla, you wouldn't think it's anything special but there's a hint of sweetness that comes from what? Do they sneak fresh corn puree into the masa? And a balancing savory quality that seems almost lardy. I have to give this round to them. As much as I love the toothsome, golden discs from Mitla Café, I couldn't stop eating La Yalaltequita. Winner: La Yalaltequita
Evan's Eso 8
#11 La Yalaltequita vs. #12 Pan Victoria
Gustavo's takeaway: I had to go back in the #TortillaTournament archives after Evan's eclectic run, and my suspicions were correct. The only other time we've had two seeds lower than number 10 meet up in the Eso 8 was in our very first tournament, when Kernel of Truth faced off against La Corona Tortilleria of San Fernando. That this anomaly occurred again this year shows how strong SoCal's tortilla scene is — and how the Tortilla Tournament has only gotten a taste of it. Sorry, Mitla. Better luck next year, although I have to admit I can't wait to see the HILARIOUS meme of grief you'll post on IG after reading this!
CORN BRACKET: GUSTAVO
Judge: Gustavo Arellano, LA Times journalist and KCRW contributor
Gustavo's Results
#1 Tallula's vs. #5 Chabelita's: I absolutely love Chabelita's corn tortillas, especially because their dishes are so wonderful. They actually make better food than Tallula's, which sadly closed in August. But this isn't a restaurant tournament, it's the Tortilla Tournament. And Tallula's made it to the Fuerte Four for the past two years because they're wonderful. Chabelita's yellow corn is what a tortilla should taste like but Tallula's takes that axiom with blue corn and turns the dial to 11. Winner: Tallula's
#2 Taco María vs. #6 Tortilleria Lily: Tortillería Lily is a perfect machine tortilla, the tiniest bit thicker than La Princesita but better. Yet Taco María's tortilla goes beyond perfection, and it starts with its heirloom blue corn. There's also the handmade advantage that gives it more texture and, hence, the win. If Lilly hits the nexus that connects you to the ancients, like I kept babbling about last year when arguing why corn ultimately beats flour, Taco María does the same while offering us a portal to the future. Winner: Taco María
Gustavo's Eso 8
#1 Tallula's vs. #2 Taco María
Gustavo's Takeaway: Blue corn versus blue corn. Shuttered restaurant versus shuttered restaurant. Monica versus María. A repeat of 2021's Tortilla Tournament of Champions corn finale. Oh, next week is going to be hard!
There were some tough matchups leading to the Eso Eight in this year's Tortilla Tournament. Photo credit: Usman Yousaf/Unsplash
FLOUR BRACKET: CONNIE
Judge: Connie Alvarez, KCRW Communications Director
Connie's Results
#1 Sonoratown vs. #5 Manolo Farmers Market: All hail Sonoratown por vida but this round goes to the new-to-me Manolo Farmers Market! Their fluffy two-ply tortilla is robust without feeling heavy and the light, airy flavor backs up this winning paradoxical disk. Winner: Manolo
#6 Dunsmoor vs. #7 Heritage Craft BBQ & Brewery: Dunsmoor is tiny but mighty and packed with flavor. Heritage Craft BBQ's unique taste, perfect texture, and more functional size win this round. Winner: Heritage
Connie's Eso 8
#5 Manolo Farmers Market vs. #7 Heritage Craft BBQ & Brewery
Gustavo's takeaway: This is technically a San Diego County matchup, except Heritage will always be OC in my mind and stomach since their mothership is in San Juan Capistrano. But this shows how strong San Diego's scene ultimately is. It's the first time any San Diego tortilla has made it into the Eso Eight, let alone two. Not a matchup I'd like to have, because Manolo is one of my favorite store-bought flour tortillas in Southern California, but Heritage's foray into flour tortillas (they use Burritos La Palma in SJC) shows you should never underestimate el mero mero cantinero Danny Castillo, who is showing California through Heritage's #TortillaTournament run that his team can master more than just 'cue.
FLOUR BRACKET: SEAN
Judge: Sean Vukan, #TortillaTournament scout
Sean's Results
#1 HomeState vs. #4 Super A Foods: I preferred Super A's batch the first time around as these had a somewhat gummy interior and a somewhat waxy exterior. HomeState's were once again buttery, consistent, and so flavorful. To me, a HomeState tortilla is at its best when those brown, flavor spots crisp up just a bit, giving off a nice contrast in textures as you make your way through the tortilla. HomeState brings their A-game this round and knocks off Super A Foods in what I thought would be a closer matchup but was a blowout. Winner: HomeState
#6 Las Cuatro Milpas vs. #7 La Troca Catracha: On the surface, the two tortillas are nearly identical in size — 10-12 inch floury discs that could double as frisbees. Both fold and roll well, and both are dotted with brown spots. I will say that La Troca Catracha's remain remarkably pliable even after being in my refrigerator for a couple days after tasting. Las Cuatro Milpas' are a little hard to wiggle and are somewhat stiff. Where Milpas takes it, though, is in flavor. The notes of corn and pork shine through, resonating on the taste buds with every bite and are quite pleasant to smell as the tortillas cook on the cast iron. While La Troca Catracha's tortillas are a welcome addition to the #TortillaTournament, they just weren't as flavorful as their San Diego competition. Like the San Diego State Aztecs in this year's NCAA basketball tournament, Las Cuatro Milpas keeps it rolling. Winner: Las Cuatro Milpas
Sean's Eso 8
#1 HomeState vs. #6 Las Cuatro Milpas
Gustavo's takeaway: Yet another San Diego entrant (and, really, still yet another: HomeState just opened an Oceanside location) makes it into the Eso 8 for the first time. If only the Padres could play up to expectations, America's Finest City just might become the next L.A.!