This Hanoi-style beef pho needs no sauce

BEEF PHO BROTH

The amount of time you invest in your pho broth only adds to its complexity of flavor. Expect to set aside 4½ hours for this recipe: An hour of prep, plus 3½ hours for the broth to simmer and cool.

Yield: Makes 4 quarts of beef broth

Ingredients
A 4-inch thick section of ginger, unpeeled
4 large, firm shallots (12 to 16 oz total), unpeeled
6 lbs beef marrow, knuckle and neck bones
A 1 lb pig’s trotter, precut into 4 or 5 pieces (optional)
5½ qts water
1½ to 2 lbs boneless beef brisket, chuck or cross-rib roast, cut into 2 or 3 pieces
½ to ¾ oz dried scallop or dried shrimp
5 star anise (a total of 40 robust points with seeds)
A husky 3-inch stick of cinnamon
A large pod of Chinese black cardamom, crushed to expose the seeds
2 tsps fennel seeds
A medium (6 oz) Fuji apple, peeled, cored and cut into thumbnail-size chunks (optional)
1½ tbsps fine sea salt
About ¼ cup fish sauce

Equipment
A 12 qt stock pot
A small stove-top grilling rack (optional)

Instructions

Char the aromatics: Using tongs, roast the ginger and shallots until the skins turns splotchy and black. (If working indoors, turn on the exhaust fan and open a window.) If you have a small grilling rack available, you can also position it over the open flame and place the ginger and shallots on it. Be sure to rotate the ginger and shallots since they’ll char at different rates due to their uneven shapes and sizes. After about 10 to 15 minutes, they should soften slightly and become sweetly fragrant. Remove from heat and allow to cool for about 10 minutes.

Prepare the aromatics: Once cool enough to handle, remove the charred skins from the shallots and rinse under warm running water to dislodge any stubborn dark bits of skin, if needed. Trim and discard the blackened root and stem ends, then halve or quarter the shallots and set them aside.

Use a vegetable peeler or the edge of a teaspoon to remove the ginger skin; rinse under warm water to remove any blackened bits. Halve the ginger lengthwise and cut into chunks. Then using the broad side of your knife or a meat mallet, lightly bruise the chunks of ginger. Set the ginger aside to add to the stock pot.

Parboil the ingredients: To achieve a clear pho broth, parboil the bones and pig’s trotter (if using) in a 12-quart stock pot. Drain the liquid and rinse and rub off any impurities from the bones and trotter. Clean the pot and return the parboiled bones and trotter to the pot.

Prepare the broth: Now pour 5½ quarts of water into the pot and bring to a boil over high heat, partially covered. Once boiling, uncover and lower the heat to a gentle simmer. Use a ladle or a skimmer to remove any scum that rises to the surface. Then add the charred ginger and shallots, the boneless beef, dried scallop (or dried shrimp), star anise, cinnamon stick, black cardamom, fennel seeds, chunks of apple (if using) and sea salt. Adjust the heat accordingly to maintain a constant simmer and cook, uncovered, for at least 3 hours.

Separate the meat: After 1½ hours, remove the boneless beef and transfer it to a bowl. (The meat should feel very firm, making it easier to slice thinly later.) Add water to the bowl to cover the meat and soak for 10 minutes to prevent the meat from darkening and drying out. Drain the water and set the meat aside in the bowl, partially covered, to cool completely. (Note: The cooked beef can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 3 months.)

Meanwhile, keep the broth at a steady simmer for the remaining 1½ hours. Once done, let the broth rest for 20 minutes to allow any impurities to settle. This will further concentrate the flavor. Then using your tongs, remove the bones and any other large retrievable bits from the broth. Discard the solids. (Note: If you plan to save and/or salvage any edible bits of meat from the bones, soak them in water first for 10 minutes. Then drain, prep and store the meat and bones accordingly.)

Strain the broth: Position a muslin-lined mesh strainer over another large pot. Try to skim any remaining fat from the surface of your broth and then strain the liquid through the muslin-lined mesh strainer into the second pot. You should end up with about 4 quarts of broth. If using the broth immediately, season it with fish sauce and extra salt, to taste. Otherwise, partially cover the unseasoned broth, allow to cool and then transfer to the refrigerator.

To store: This broth can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or kept in the freezer for up to 3 months. Reheat and season with fish sauce and salt just before serving.