Angelenos will know chef Mei Lin from her restaurant Day Bird and the sadly closed Nightshade. Nationally, she is best known for winning season 12 of Top Chef.
Growing up, Lin's parents owned a Chinese restaurant that they would close for Thanksgiving. After her grandparents passed away, her mother and father decided to keep the doors opened on the holiday. The last booth, closest to the kitchen, was the family table back in those days. A duck or a roasted chicken would sometimes stand in for turkey. Fragrant sticky rice with shiitake mushrooms, sauteed vegetables, and pea tendrils acted as accompaniments.
Lin makes her sweet potatoes whole, like a baked potato with a honey tamarind, using a white fleshed, boniato yam. Since sweet potatoes have a meaty texture, Nik Sharma has a kung pao version that he serves over white rice.
Kung Pao Sweet Potatoes
Serves 4
There are two foods that my husband, Michael, is extremely fond of: kung pao chicken and sweet potatoes. I’ve combined his love for both in this classic Chinese dish from the Sichuan province. Unlike the chicken, which is usually battered and fried, the sweet potatoes are stir-fried to bring out their sweet caramel flavor and then tossed with the sauce. Serve this warm with plain rice.
Instructions and Ingredients
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In a wok or large skillet over high heat, warm 2 Tbsp neutral oil with a high smoke point such as grapeseed. When the oil begins to shimmer, add 1½ lb [680 g] orange-fleshed sweet potatoes, peeled and diced into ¼ in [6 mm] cubes, and stir-fry until golden brown and tender, 7 to 9 minutes. Lower the heat if they start to turn too dark. Season with fine sea salt and ¼ tsp ground black pepper. Transfer the sweet potatoes with a slotted spoon to a large plate or bowl.
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In a small bowl, whisk together ¼ cup [60 ml] Shaoxing wine or dry sherry, 1 Tbsp low-sodium soy sauce, 2 tsp toasted sesame oil, 1 tsp Chinese black vinegar, 1 tsp cornstarch, 1 tsp ground Sichuan peppercorns, and ½ tsp sugar to form a smooth sauce.
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Wipe out the wok or skillet and heat 2 Tbsp neutral oil with a high smoke point such as grapeseed over high heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, add 10 to 12 whole dried red chillies such as chilli de árbol, stems and seeds removed and discarded, cut into ½ in [13 mm] pieces, and stir-fry for 15 to 30 seconds, until fragrant and the chillies turn bright red and start to expand. Add 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced, and 2 in [5 cm] piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut lengthwise into thin slices, and stir-fry for 30 seconds, until fragrant.
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Return the sweet potatoes to the wok. Drizzle the sauce over the sweet potatoes and stir-fry until it thickens and the sweet potatoes are completely coated, 30 seconds. Add ½ cup [70 g] roasted unsalted whole peanuts and 4 scallions, both white and green parts, cut into ½ in [13 mm] long pieces, and stir for 1 minute. Remove from the heat, taste, and season with fine sea salt. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve immediately. Leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.