"Strong backs and weak minds" was the motto of John Finger when he planted his first oyster seed in Tomales Bay in 1983. Hog Island Oyster Company has grown into a legendary Northern California oyster farm that began with a five-acre shellfish lease.
Many of those involved in the early days had marine science backgrounds. Finger, who hails from the East Coast, fished and clammed while growing up. Their love of food allowed the company to expand into five restaurants around the Bay Area, as well as wholesale and catering divisions, a dedicated hatchery, a saltworks, and several seaweed initiatives. Finger is the founding CEO. Along with two-time James Beard-award winning cookbook author and noted Northern California chef John Ash, they discuss the culture and cuisine of the place and Ash's new book, The Hog Island Book of Fish & Seafood.
John Ash (left) was one of the first chefs in the Bay Area to use John Finger's oysters from Tomales Bay on his menus. Years of working with local seafood prompted his latest cookbook, The Hog Island Book of Fish & Seafood. Photo courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Company.
Crab and Corn Chowder with Bacon and Wild Mushrooms
Serves 6-8
Ingredients
- 5 ears sweet corn
- 2 cups (480 ml) chicken stock (recipe follows)
- 4 cups (960 ml) heavy cream
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 6 ounces (170 g) slab bacon cut into 1/4-inch (6-mm) dice
- 1 ½ cups (190 g) finely diced onions
- 1 ½ cups (135 g) finely diced leeks, white and some tender green parts, well rinsed
- ¾ cup (75 g) diced celery
- 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
- 3 cups (420 g) diced waxy potatoes
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 8 ounces (225 g) wild mushrooms, such as chanterelles or oysters, thickly sliced (about 3 cups)
- 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, or ½ teaspoon dried
- Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
- 3 tablespoons dry or medium-dry sherry
- 1 pound (455 g) lump crabmeat, picked over for shell
- 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Instructions
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Using a large knife, cut the kernels from the cobs. You should have about 5 cups (725 g). In a large saucepan, combine the cobs, stock, and cream. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.
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In a large, heavy soup pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat and sauté the bacon until browned and crisp. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain. Discard all but 3 tablespoons of fat from the pot.
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Add the onions, leeks, celery, and fennel seeds and sauté over medium heat until the vegetables are crisp-tender. Add the potatoes and stir. Remove and discard the cobs from the cream mixture and strain the mixture into the pot with the vegetables. Bring to a simmer and cook until potatoes are barely tender, about 10 minutes. Add the corn kernels and simmer for 2 minutes, then remove from the heat.
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In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and sauté until tender. Add the thyme leaves and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the mushrooms to the soup along with the sherry, reserving the mushroom pan. Taste and adjust the seasoning. If desired, thin with additional stock or cream.
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Add the crab to the reserved pan and gently warm over low heat. Divide the crab among warm shallow soup bowls along with the reserved bacon and the parsley. Ladle the soup over and serve immediately.