The perilla plant is so essential to Korean culture that chef Jihee Kim named her restaurant after it. What started as a pandemic pivot went brick-and-mortar last year at the cusp of Chinatown and Echo Park. LA Times restaurant critic Bill Addison shared details on this neighborhood banchan shop. The small plates of mostly vegetables, and sometimes egg or fish, come with rice and are often perceived as appetizers or side dishes. “In Korean culture, banchan is seen as part of the meal, not as additions,” says Addison.
Kim grew up in Busan, South Korea and came to California when she was 20 years old. Growing up in her parents' restaurant, she knew a life in the culinary world was predestined. After formal training in San Francisco, she took jobs at Range and Gary Danko in the city. Upon arriving in Los Angeles, Kim cooked at Rustic Canyon. A background in restaurants focused on seasonality informed her style and appreciation for farmer’s markets.
The dosirak is a Korean lunchbox. One features marinated chicken and the other cod, both served hot. Addison says it’s a great introduction to Kim’s food. Perfectly portioned and served with fluffy rice and four seasonal banchan, “You get a taste of what she’s up to.”
Jihee Kim (left) worked at Rustic Canyon before pivoting during the pandemic to make banchan before opening a brick-and-mortar on the east side. Photo courtesy of Perilla.
Chef Jihee Kim mixes an ume syrup. Photo courtesy of Perilla.