"In Korean culture, banchan is a fundamental part of the meal, not seen as additions," explains Los Angeles Times restaurant critic Bill Addison. At Perilla, on the cusp of Chinatown and Echo Park, chef/owner Jihee Kim serves market-inspired banchan and two options for lunchtime dosirak.
Kim grew up in Busan, South Korea, where she spent time in her parents' restaurant before moving to California when she was 20. After attending culinary school in San Francisco, she worked at restaurants that focused on seasonality and farmers markets, like Range and Gary Danko, before heading to Los Angeles where she worked at Rustic Canyon prior to the pandemic. Kim was recently named a James Beard semi-finalist in the Best Chef: California category.
The dosirak, a multi-item lunch box, is offered with marinated chicken or cod. Both are served hot and accompanied by fluffy rice with four kinds of banchan.
Addison highlights Kim's rolled omelet coiled in seaweed as a perennial favorite, while the kimchi using collard greens appeals to his Southern roots.
The banchan shop is located behind peachy, orange buildings on Alpine Street, tucked behind Heavy Water Coffee.
Jihee Kim (left) creates modern banchan using seasonal, California ingredients at Perilla. Photo by © 2023 Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Times.