The question of authenticity is one that is often raised when we talk about ethnic cuisine and the contemporary reinterpretations of those long-standing traditions by some of today’s chefs. For chef Enrique Olvera, there can be nothing more personally authentic than internalizing and reinterpreting the culture and traditions that define him as Mexican through the lens of own life experiences. It has been through this process of self-discovery and re-conceiving traditional recipes that he has come to truly understand the heart of Mexican food.
His debut book, Mexico from the Inside Out, is an homage to his homeland, a country of contrasts, at the soul of which lies its food. His two restaurants, the recently opened Cosme in New York and Pujol in Mexico have earned him critical acclaim, with the latter ranking Number 16 among San Pellegrino’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants.
Chef Enrique suggests that his cookbook be used as a basis for inspiration. Combining the foundational ingredients of Mexican cuisine—tortillas and salsa—he has shared with us his contemporary take on huevos rancheros. This go-to recipe for Eggs with Hoja Santa & Ranchera Sauce is one that he says that he could easily eat everyday if he had to.
Eggs with Hoja Santa and Ranchera Salsa
Huevos con Hoja Santa y Salsa Ranchera
Serves 4
Ranchera Salsa Ingredients
6 plum tomatoes
¼ white onion
1 large garlic clove
1 chile serrano
1 tsp kosher salt
Poached Eggs Ingredients
¼ cup (60 ml) white cane vinegar
1 tsp kosher salt
8 large eggs
Plating Ingredients
4 fried Corn Tortillas (see recipe below)
4 hoja santa leaves, fried
1 cup (140 g) grated panela cheese
1 heirloom avocado, halved, pitted and diced (with skin on)
To prepare the Ranchera Salsa: Place all the ingredients except the salt on a baking sheet and roast in a 430°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7) oven for 25 minutes. Blend the ingredients together and add salt to taste.
To Poach Eggs: In a pot, bring 3 cups (about 750 ml) water, vinegar and salt to a boil over medium heat, then reduce the heat to low. Crack one of the eggs and carefully lower it into the hot water. Using a spoon, cook the egg for about 3½ minutes or until the white is opaque, while making sure that it maintains its shape and doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pot. Then, using a slotted spoon, transfer the egg to a bowl of room temperature water to cool for a minute and drain on paper towels. Repeat process with the remaining eggs.
To Plate: Divide the tortillas among 4 plates and top each with a fried hoja santa and 2 poached eggs. Coat with the salsa and garnish with cheese and avocado.
Fried Corn Tortillas
Ingredients
½ cup (140 g) Corn Dough (see recipe below)
3 tsp water
1 tsp kosher salt
Process: Knead the dough with the water and salt until combined and smooth, adding a bit more water if needed. Divide into 1 oz (30 g) portions and shape into balls.
Using a tortilla press, flatten each ball to form a tortilla. Cook on a comal over medium heat for 15 seconds on each side, turning the tortillas over thrice for a total of 45 seconds.
Corn Dough
Yield is 2.2 lbs or 1 kg
Ingredients
1 tsp slaked lime (calcium hydroxide)
2 cups (510 g) dried corn
Process: In a large pot, dissolve the slaked lime in 4 cups (about 1 l) of water and bring to a boil. Add the corn and simmer for 45 minutes. Let stand for 12 hours. Drain the corn in a sieve and rinse until the water runs clear.
Grind to a fine, compact dough.
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