With the return of his weekly restaurant review, Los Angeles Times restaurant critic Bill Addison visits Shiku in the Grand Central Market. After the success of their former restaurant Baroo, Chef Kwang Uh and his wife Mina Park have named their latest concept after the Korean word for “family.” Addison recommends the kimchi corn, fried mushrooms, kimchi-braised pork belly, and the doshirak — Korean lunch boxes that can be either formal or more casual. Addison says that during the pandemic, many diners learned about portable Korean foods, and Shiku fits into how people have been dining.
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