Working with meat processing plants is like ‘dealing with the DMV every day of your life,’ says rancher Meredith Bell

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At the Santa Monica Farmer’s Market, correspondent Gillian Ferguson checks in with Meredith Bell, owner of Autonomy Farms. Bell breeds pigs, cows, and chickens at her 20-acre farm in Bakersfield. She shares how she raises chickens to the boutique three-pound size often called for in cookbook recipes.

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Evan Kleiman