We're deep in citrus season in Southern California and specks of yellow illuminate tables at the Santa Monica Farmers Market. Bethany Harris, who sources all of the produce for the Gjelina Group, explains that even lemons are seasonal although we see them year-around at the grocery store. Eureka and Lisbon varieties are interchangeable with the Lisbon being a bit juicier.
With beautiful aromatics and a thin skin, the rind of a Meyer lemon is edible and perfect for preserving. As a result of being crossed with Mandarin, a deeper color and flavor is achieved. The Santa Teresa variety is garnering attention from chefs and market shoppers. Harris describes the flavor as comparable to a yellow Starburst candy and says they smell like a scratch and sniff sticker. "It just brings you back to when you're five," she says.
Available at Murray Family Farms, Santa Teresa lemons are the "OG limoncello," according to Harris. The Ponderosa, in contrast, is more of a citron and has a nubby appearance. Super aromatic with a Buddha's hand-vibe, it will "make you pucker beyond belief."
Harris gets most of her citrus from Laura Ramierez of JJ's Lone Daughter Ranch in Redlands. The winter citrus is peaking on the farm right now. Cara Cara oranges are available as well as Valentine pomelos. "It's a combination between an oroblanco that kissed a blood orange, and it's just so great," Ramirez says. "It's not bitter or tart in any sort of way. It's just all the sweetness."