LA Times restaurant critic Patricia Escárcega is back from maternity leave with a report from Lakewood. It was there she recently encountered a Cambodian chef named Beeline Krouch, who calls himself “Mexican at heart.” A protege of Thomas Ortega, Krouch opened Chinitos Tacos in 2018. He’s fond of wedding Asian flavors with taco fillings, such as five spice-braised barbacoa and chicken marinated in ponzu and lemongrass. Escárcega also notes that the burnt cheese tacos are especially popular with keto diners.
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