LA Times restaurant critic Bill Addison reviews Mama D’s in Boyle Heights and its focus on the cuisine of Cameroon. Addison says that owner Claudia Wanki has an unstoppable energy, having grown up in the Washington DC area in her mother’s restaurant. He highly recommends the ndole, which, on appearance, just looks like creamed spinach, but has dried crayfish, ground peanuts, and spices. The “umami blast” is like nothing Addison has ever tasted from this region. Eru, also a stew of greens, is the chef’s favorite. Cooked with the leaves of a climbing vine, a variety of meats are added, including beef and tripe.
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