"She made a cookie that I was very angry about because it was better than any peanut butter cookie that I ever made," says chef and restaurateur Nancy Silverton, after biting into baker Roxana Jullapat's peanut butter cookie at Friends & Family. Silverton was challenged to tinker with her own recipe. What came next was her latest cookbook of classic baking recipes: The Cookie That Changed My Life.
Kentucky Butter Cake
Makes 1 12-inch cake
To know me is to know that this is a very “Nancy” cake, and my co-author, Carolynn, knows me well. So, when she saw a picture of it online for the first time, knowing I would be drawn to how plain and straightforward it is, she sent it to me. I immediately thought: “Oh, my God! A butter cake with a simple glaze. What could be more perfect?” It seemed so obvious, and yet I had never made one, and had never heard of this cake. It turns out, Kentucky Butter Cake is a thing. It first appeared in 1963 when a woman named Nell Lewis entered the cake into a Pillsbury Bake-Off— and won. In recent years, just about every blogger out there has published a recipe for it, as has The New York Times. And what’s incredible is this: All these years later, all the recipes are identical. Nobody has touched a thing.
The cake is like a cross between a pound cake and a yellow cake, with different ratios of flour, butter, and sugar. It’s moist and flavorful, with a tender, delicate crumb. But what makes it really stand out is the glaze. When the cake comes out of the oven, you poke it all over with a skewer, so the glaze seeps down into the cake. Then you invert the cake and glaze the top side as well. Some of the glaze stays on the cake instead of going in the cake, hardening into a thin exterior glaze with a discernible, delicate crunch.
The result is like everything you want in a glazed old- fashioned doughnut, without it being fried. I added bourbon to the glaze, otherwise this is the classic. If you don’t want to make it with bourbon, just eliminate it.
This cake is best the day after it’s made.
Ingredients
For the cake
- 224 grams (1 cup) buttermilk (preferably whole-milk or low-fat), shaken
- 4 extra-large eggs
- 1 tablespoon pure vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract
- 420 grams (3 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
- 400 grams (2 cups) granulated sugar
- 1½ teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- ½ teaspoon baking soda
- 226 grams (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cubed and left at room temperature until pliable but not greasy
For the glaze
- 141 grams (1 stick plus 2 tablespoons) unsalted butter, cubed
- grams (1½ cups) granulated sugar
- ¼ cup Kentucky bourbon (or another bourbon; optional)
- 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon pure vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract
Instructions
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To make the cake, adjust an oven rack to the center position and preheat the oven to 325°F. Coat the baking mold (or pan) with cooking spray.
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Whisk the buttermilk, eggs, and vanilla together in a medium bowl. Put the flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, and baking soda in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle and mix on low speed for about 15 seconds to combine the ingredients. Add the butter and half of the buttermilk mixture and mix on low speed until no flour is visible, about 30 seconds. With the mixer on low speed, slowly add the remaining buttermilk mixture. Increase the speed to medium and beat until the batter is pale, smooth, and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes, stopping to scrape down the bowl and paddle whenever ingredients are accumulating. Stop the mixer, remove the bowl and paddle from the stand, and clean them with the spatula, scraping the bowl from the bottom up to release any ingredients that may be stuck there.
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Scrape the batter into the prepared mold (or pan) and smooth out the top with an offset spatula. Place the mold (or pan) on a large baking sheet.
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Place the baking sheet with the cake on it on the center rack of the oven and bake until the cake is golden brown and begins to pull away from the sides of the pan, and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 60 to 75 minutes, rotating the pan front to back halfway through the baking time so it bakes evenly. Remove the cake from the oven.
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To make the glaze, when the cake comes out of the oven, combine the butter, sugar, bourbon, vanilla, and 60 grams (¼ cup) water in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium- high heat. Reduce the heat and gently simmer until the glaze is slightly thickened and sticky, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.
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While the cake is still warm, use a skewer or toothpick to poke about 40 holes in it, penetrating about three-fourths of the way to the bottom. Dip a pastry brush into the glaze and, using about one- third of the glaze, dab a generous amount of glaze over the surface of the cake, going back over the cake two or three times to create a thick, even layer.
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To remove the cake from the pan, run the tip of a paring knife around the top edge of the pan to loosen any stuck bits. Place a cake round or large platter on top of the cake pan, invert the cake, and lift off the pan. Generously dab about half of the remaining glaze evenly over the surface of the cake, going back over the cake two or three times. Set the cake aside for about 1 hour for the glaze to set. Warm the remaining glaze over low heat and serve it on the side for people to drizzle over their portion of cake.
Silverton ran across a recipe in the New York Times that she had never encountered before, a Kentucky Butter Cake. The cake won the Pillsbury Bake-Off Contest in 1967. "If you have to make one cake out of the book, just make that," says Silverton. "I think what makes it so delicious is that after it's baked, it's brushed with a butter glaze that kind of has the same effect as a glazed donut."
"I didn't get creative in the book," says Silverton of her decision to take on the classics. "There's nothing that young, tattooed men that love to cook over grills with lots of fire would be interested in."
In an effort to make a cornbread that actually tasted like corn, Silverton experimented with adding creamed corn before landing on making a corn pudding that she folds into the batter.In a gentle rant about muffins, Silverton says she finds supersize muffins offputting: "A muffin is not a cupcake. I feel like a muffin is a breakfast item and should be more wholesome."
Nancy Silverton is the chef and restaurateur behind Osteria Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza, Chi Spacca, and Nancy's Fancy.