Before moving into the world of hospitality and opening three Washington, D.C.-area restaurants, Rose Previte studied public policy. A taste for travel led her to a three-week journey on the Trans-Siberian Railroad. The train ride ended years of soul searching. Previte flipped the script and turned to restaurants.
Her first venture, Compass Rose, focused on global street foods. For her sophomore effort, Maydan, Previte wanted to showcase her emotional connection to Middle Eastern cuisine. Located in D.C.'s U Street corridor, the Michelin-starred restaurant extends beyond the Lebanese food of Previte's childhood, dipping into the flavor profiles of various Middle Eastern and North African countries. Live fire is a hallmark of Maydan, where carrots are roasted and kebabs are kissed by flame.
The raw lamb in kibbeh nayeh was restaurateur Rose Previte's first solid food as a child. She includes her family's recipe in her new cookbook. Photo by Jennifer Chase.
With her chefs, she took a research trip to Tunisia, Morocco, Lebanon, Turkey, and the republic of Georgia, bringing back recipes from home kitchens. "Maydan has become a tribute to many of the women who taught us to cook," Previte says. You'll find many of these recipes in her new cookbook, Maydan: Recipes from Lebanon and Beyond.
Kibbeh Nayeh
Ground Raw Lamb with Bulgar
Serves 8 to 12
My mom learned how to make kibbeh nayeh from her own mother, who came from the west Beqaa region in Lebanon. Mom typically uses little to no spice, so that the full flavor of the lamb comes through. If you’re a fan of dishes like carpaccio, sashimi, and tartare, this will blow your mind. To the uninitiated it might seem like this is a pretty straightforward dish to make. But that is definitely not the case. Even in my mom’s own family, among her sisters and cousins, battle lines are drawn in an instant if someone chooses the wrong side in debates about the bulgur-to-meat ratio, amount and proportion of individual spices, or whether rose petals are in or out. One constant, no matter which side you’re on, is that everyone is careful not to let the meat get too warm. Some joke that the Christian Lebanese serve their kibbeh nayeh with the sign of the cross pressed into the surface to give thanks for the food, and also as a little prayer that it doesn’t kill anyone. If you order your lamb from a Lebanese butcher counter, it’s fine to have them grind it. If not, it’s better to get a bone-in leg and grind it yourself; Mom would definitely approve.
Ingredients
For the kibbeh seasoning (optional):
- 1 tablespoon ground allspice
- 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
- 1 tablespoon ground cumin
- 1 tablespoon ground dried rose petals
- 1 tablespoon dried mint leaves
- 1 tablespoon dried marjoram
- 1 cup (140 g) fine bulgur wheat
- 1 medium onion
- 2 pounds (910 g) boneless leg of lamb, finely ground
- 1¾ tablespoons kosher salt, plus more as needed
- Freshly ground black pepper
For serving:
- Extra-virgin olive oil, preferably Lebanese unfiltered
- Harissa (page 35; optional)
- White onion, sliced
- Fresh herbs, such as mint (optional)
- Pita
Instructions
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To make the optional kibbeh seasoning, in a small bowl mix together the allspice, cinnamon, cumin, rose petals, mint, and marjoram. Set aside until needed or store in a tightly covered container in a cool, dark place up to 6 months.
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Place the bulgur wheat in a medium bowl and add cold water to cover by about 2 inches (5 cm). Let stand for 30 minutes. Drain through a fine-mesh strainer, and then squeeze it to release as much of the water as possible.
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Meanwhile, grate the onion on the fine teeth of a box grater. In a large bowl, mix the onion and up to 2 tablespoons kibbeh seasoning, if using, with the ground lamb. Add the drained bulgur, the salt, and pepper to taste. Knead until well combined and softened, dipping your hands in ice water to cool them down if they get too warm; this may take several minutes.
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Pat the mixture into an oblong or round shape, depending on the shape of your serving plate. Transfer to the plate and decorate the surface with the tines of a fork or the bowl of a spoon if desired. If not eating at once, place in the refrigerator until serving (and once served, put the kibbeh nayeh back in the fridge after it’s been out for an hour or two).
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Serve with olive oil, harissa, if using, sliced onion, fresh herbs, if using, and pita.
Late last year, Previte announced she plans to open a 10,000-square-foot restaurant complex in LA's West Jefferson neighborhood. Anchored by Maydan Market, it will house LA outposts of Maydan and Compass Rose as well as five local food businesses. Look for a summer 2024 opening.
"Maydan has become a tribute to many of the women who taught us to cook," says Rose Previte. Photo by Jennifer Chase.
Maydan: Recipes from Lebanon and Beyond" features recipes for popular dishes served at the Michelin-starred restaurant in Washington, D.C.. Photo courtesy of Abrams.