In the twentieth century, pho embodied Vietnamese history. The bowls of noodle soup and plates of noodles made their way into protest poems and were even used for espionage during the Vietnam War. So writes Andrea Ngyuen in her authoritative history, “The Pho Cookbook.” Find her recipe for Hanoi-style beef pho — that’s the same style of noodle soup President Obama ate with Anthony Bourdain on “Parts Unknown.” — on the Good Food blog.