Considered the oldest cultivated grain in Africa, fonio grows in poor soil and is drought-resistant. A member of the millet family, chef Pierre Thiam explains that the supergrain thrives in an arid environment and regenerates the soil with a short growing period of two months. It is “a nutritional powerhouse” that is gluten-free, Thiam says, and fonio is versatile, cooks quickly, and can be adapted to many types of cuisine.
He describes the tedious work his mother experienced to dehull fonio with a mortar and pestle. Eventually, a mechanization process was developed in Senegal that cleans 2 tons of fonio an hour as opposed to manually a ton a day.
Culturally significant, Thiam explains that in Mali the world for fonio is “po,” which is also the name for Sirius, the north star. “Fonio to them is the seed of the universe.”
“In an ideal world, fonio would be sourced in West Africa,” says Thiam. “The beneficiaries would be the small farms that are growing fonio. That’s their heritage grain.” With quinoa as a cautionary tale, where its cultivation extended beyond its origins in Latin America, Thiam wants to ensure that the supply is following the demand and stresses the importance of keeping that work in African hands.
Thiam is the executive chef and co-founder of Teranga in New York City and executive chef of Nok in Lagos, Nigeria. His company Yolélé advocates for smallholder farmers in the Sahel by opening new markets for crops grown in Africa. Thiam’s book is “The Fonio Cookbook: An Ancient Grain Rediscovered.”
Basic Fonio
MAKES 3 TO 4 CUPS
Steaming, the most common of the traditional methods of preparing fonio, is a foolproof way to avoid overcooking the grains, but cooking it on the stovetop is an easy alternative if you don’t have a double boiler. Adding oil is optional but if you do, the grains will have a richer, fluffier texture and will keep separated.
Raw fonio can be stored for up to 2 years in a sealed container or resealable plastic bag at room temperature or in the refrigerator. Cooked fonio can be kept refrigerated in a covered plastic or glass container for 2 or 3 days.
Lalo, a powder made with dried baobab leaves, is used as a seasoning and a thickener in Senegal, although here you can also use finely chopped okra as a substitute.
Traditional Steamer Method One
Ingredients
- 1 cup raw fonio, rinsed and drained well
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 tablespoon vegetable, peanut, or olive oil
- 1 teaspoon baobab leaf powder (lalo) mixed with 1⁄4 cup water, or 2 tablespoons finely chopped okra
- 3 1⁄2 cups water plus 1⁄2 cup for sprinkling
Instructions
- Line the perforated steamer top of a double boiler with cheesecloth. Fill the bottom with 3 cups water and bring to a simmer.
- Place the fonio in the top of the double boiler, cover, and steam for about 15 minutes, until the fonio is light and fluffy.
- Remove from heat. Fold in the oil and the baobab powder mixture or the okra. Fluff the fonio with a fork and mix in the salt.
- Sprinkle the fonio evenly with the remaining 1/2 cup water, cover, and return to the heat for another 10 minutes or until the fonio grains are tender and fluffy. Fluff again with a fork and serve.
Traditional Steamer Method Two
Ingredients
- 1 cup raw fonio, rinsed and drained well
- 3 1⁄2 (about) cups water
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 tablespoon peanut, vegetable, or olive oil (optional)
Instructions
- Line a steamer basket with cheesecloth and place it in a large saucepan. Pour in about 3 cups water to fill the pan up but not touching the bottom of the basket. Bring the water to a simmer.
- Place the fonio in the basket, cover, and steam for about 15 minutes, until the fonio is light and fluffy.
- Remove from the heat and fluff with a fork. Mix the salt with the remaining 1/2 cup water and sprinkle evenly over the fonio. Cover, return to the heat, and steam until the grains are tender, another 8 to 10 minutes.
- Fluff again with a fork. Mix in the oil (if using). Serve.
Stovetop Method
Ingredients
- 2 cups water
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 cup raw fonio, rinsed and drained well
- 1 tablespoon peanut, vegetable, or olive oil (optional)
Instructions
- Combine the water and salt in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the fonio and stir once. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cover tightly. Cook for about 5 minutes, until the water is absorbed.
- Turn off the heat and keep the pot covered for another 2 minutes. Fluff with a fork. Mix in the oil (if using), and serve.
Fonio needs to be dehulled before cooking, a labor-intensive process that has been mechanized to accelerate production. Photo by Adam Bartos.
Noted Senegalese chef Pierre Thiam calls fonio, “a nutrition powerhouse,” that is versatile, cooks fast, and can be adapted to many types of cuisines. Photo courtesy of Yolélé.
From harvest to table, chef Pierre Thiam celebrates the African heritage crop in “The Fonio Cookbook: An Ancient Grain Rediscovered.” Photo courtesy of Lake Isle Press, Inc.