LA Times restaurant critic Patricia Escárcega recently found herself in Watts at Hawkins House of Burgers, a walk-up counter that’s been slinging hefty backyard-style burgers since 1982. She decided to tackle the “Leaning Tower of Watts,” which features three hamburger patties, melted cheese, onions, lettuce, tomato, onion rings, pastrami, a chicken wing, and two fried eggs—and lived to write about it in the LA Times Food Newsletter.