In The Weeds

In restaurant lingo, to be "in the weeds" is to feel overwhelmed in the thick of chaos. In pre-pandemic times, it often referred to drowning in orders. COVID-19 radically altered the restaurant industry, and brought a different kind of chaos and struggle to those who depend on it to survive. These intimate first person confessions are their stories.

Dora Herrera remembers her mother, Socorro, who took orders at Yuca's in Los Feliz for nearly 50 years.

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Randy Clement, who owns Good Neighbor Bar, used wine delivery software to canvas Altadena, informing neighbors whether or not their homes had survived.

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Teddy and Andy Leonard look back on their Malibu restaurant, which succumbed to fire after 36 years of selling seafood on the Pacific Coast Highway.

Remembering the Reel Inn, a century old building, lost to the Palisades Fire

Teddy and Andy Leonard look back on their Malibu restaurant, which succumbed to fire after 36 years of selling seafood on the Pacific Coast Highway.

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Former professional basketball player Laurent Correa is turning out some of LA's best croissants.

In the Weeds with Lou The French On The Block

Former professional basketball player Laurent Correa is turning out some of LA's best croissants.

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Tommy Brockert started making pizza as a way to bring people together during the pandemic. Now, he has two LaSorted's locations.

At LaSorted's, Tommy Brockert dishes up LA-style pizza a homerun's distance from Dodger Stadium

Tommy Brockert started making pizza as a way to bring people together during the pandemic. Now, he has two LaSorted's locations.

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For two decades, Michael Buch has watched Silver Lake change around his shop, Pazzo Gelato.

At Pazzo Gelato, Michael Buch has seen Silver Lake transform in 20 years

For two decades, Michael Buch has watched Silver Lake change around his shop, Pazzo Gelato.

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Chef Jordan Kahn ushers in a new era of Vespertine.

Jordan Kahn rebirths Vespertine, now anchored by nature and nutrition

Chef Jordan Kahn ushers in a new era of Vespertine.

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Using fresh ingredients and operating out of a gas station, Arezou Appel has made Zooies Cookies a success.

Does the best cookie in Los Angeles come from a gas station?

Using fresh ingredients and operating out of a gas station, Arezou Appel has made Zooies Cookies a success.

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The Ecology Center is a blue dot in a red sea. How did Evan Marks come to run this 28-acre regenerative farm in Orange County?

How San Juan Capistrano’s Ecology Center became an oasis of regenerative farming

The Ecology Center is a blue dot in a red sea. How did Evan Marks come to run this 28-acre regenerative farm in Orange County?

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"The McSatan" and "The Bruja" are on the menu at Evil Cooks where Alex Garcia and Elvia Huerta are on a mission to "Make Tacos Great Again."

Making tacos metal with Evil Cooks

"The McSatan" and "The Bruja" are on the menu at Evil Cooks where Alex Garcia and Elvia Huerta are on a mission to "Make Tacos Great Again."

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Marc Rose and Med Abrous prepare for Christmas Eve, the busiest night of the year at Chinese restaurant Genghis Cohen.

How Genghis Cohen serves 700 guests every Christmas Eve

Marc Rose and Med Abrous prepare for Christmas Eve, the busiest night of the year at Chinese restaurant Genghis Cohen.

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Brothers Mario and Sal Marino look back on 40 years of Marino Ristorante, where John and Yoko brushed elbows with the likes of John Wayne.

Legend and lore: Marino Ristorante celebrates 40 years on Melrose

Brothers Mario and Sal Marino look back on 40 years of Marino Ristorante, where John and Yoko brushed elbows with the likes of John Wayne.

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Gilberto Centina keeps racking up accolades at Holbox, a top-shelf seafood counter located in Mercado La Paloma.

Gilberto Cetina runs award-winning Holbox, but reluctantly found his way into the kitchen

Gilberto Centina keeps racking up accolades at Holbox, a top-shelf seafood counter located in Mercado La Paloma.

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When Uli Nasibova found ice cream and gelato too sweet, she decided to make her own.

Tiny spoon, big flavors: In the Weeds with Uli's Gelato

When Uli Nasibova found ice cream and gelato too sweet, she decided to make her own.

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In a former dry cleaners with an espresso machine and four cakes on the menu, David Cooley created The Abbey.

The Abbey at 32: How an underdog cafe became an LA queer institution

In a former dry cleaners with an espresso machine and four cakes on the menu, David Cooley created The Abbey.

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After years of luring customers with Chinese staples, Chao Krung’s second generation of owners restore the menu to its traditional Thai glory.

Thai eatery Chao Kung removes Chinese dishes in favor of traditional Thai flavors

After years of luring customers with Chinese staples, Chao Krung’s second generation of owners restore the menu to its traditional Thai glory.

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Minh Phan reopens Historic Filipinotown favorite Porridge + Puffs.

Porridge + Puffs reopens after three years

Minh Phan reopens Historic Filipinotown favorite Porridge + Puffs.

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Shanita Nicholas and Amanda-Jane Thomas left their legal careers in the rearview mirror to open a community-focused coffee shop in Inglewood.

At Inglewood's Sip + Sonder, coffee is the starting point for community

Shanita Nicholas and Amanda-Jane Thomas left their legal careers in the rearview mirror to open a community-focused coffee shop in Inglewood.

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Joe and Celia Ward-Wallace are taking the food and drink of South LA Cafe to the Natural History Museum.

South LA Cafe comes to the Natural History Museum

Joe and Celia Ward-Wallace are taking the food and drink of South LA Cafe to the Natural History Museum.

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"The McSatan" and "The Bruja" are on the menu at Evil Cooks where Alex Garcia and Elvia Huerta are on a mission to "Make Tacos Great Again."

Making tacos metal with Evil Cooks

"The McSatan" and "The Bruja" are on the menu at Evil Cooks where Alex Garcia and Elvia Huerta are on a mission to "Make Tacos Great Again."

from Good Food